Husbandry and Care
We have learned that basic care sheets are not comprehensive enough for many of the more unusual species we work with, and thus we have decided to put together some of the key informational points we've learned on each species we breed and care for. This will be a constant work in progress, as we are constantly learning new things and techniques about these amazing creatures.
At the end of the page we've included a small photo gallery as well, whether it's with a DSLR or the camera phone in our pocket, we can't resist trying to capture some of the incredible moments we share with our reptiles. Sometimes you just have to be there, but I hope we are able to bring you a piece of what we are so fortunate to experience daily.
At the end of the page we've included a small photo gallery as well, whether it's with a DSLR or the camera phone in our pocket, we can't resist trying to capture some of the incredible moments we share with our reptiles. Sometimes you just have to be there, but I hope we are able to bring you a piece of what we are so fortunate to experience daily.
Brazilian Rainbow Boa (Epicrates Cenchria)
Description:
Commonly known as one of the most beautiful reptiles in the world.
They range from bright red to dark brown, with multiple pattern and color variations and morphs. They get about 6-7 feet long but are fairly slender snakes, being semi-arboreal. They have an extremely strong feeding response but are known for being fairly calm snakes if handled regularly. They are constrictors and are extremely powerful snakes for their size and can have a very tight grip when being handled.
In Captivity:
As adults these snakes require a minimum of 4ft x 2ft of space, with a wet hide and a temperature gradient to help digest meals. I recommend using an appropriate sized hook when removing the snake from it's enclosure, and avoid handling around feeding times.
Temperature :
These snakes need an ambient temperature of 80-82 degrees with a warm spot of 82-84. Generally this is achieved with a heat pad or heating cable under the cage or vivarium, or with a radiant heat panel. Due to their unusually high humidity requirements a heating lamp is not an ideal source and will dry out the air in the cage.
Humidity/Hydration:
Babies and neonates require 90-100% humidity, lower humidity will cause dehydration, stuck or broken sheds and respiratory issues. Adults typically can handle 70-85%. This humidity is easy to achieve with a large water bowl for soaking , limited ventilation (no screen tank lids) and appropriate substrate should used (cypress mulch or coconut fiber are great options that hold humidity and avoiding mold). These snakes are not prone to scale rot, but it is always a possibility if kept in a dirty or overly wet environment, because of this it's important to remove feces as soon as noticed to avoid bacteria development.
Lighting:
They do not require any specific lighting or UVB, but some keepers find that light cycles are helpful when breeding or when going into brumation.
Availability:
There are several breeders of Brazilian Rainbow Boas in the United States that provide gorgeous healthy snakes. Although sometimes large chain stores will carry these snakes, they should usually be avoided, due to their specific requirements they are often not cared for properly. Respiratory infections, dehydration, and shuck shed are the most common problems with these snakes, and unfortunately these are very common with breeders or keepers who do not specialize in these snakes.
Choosing a Snake:
Any snake you choose should be alert, have a bright rainbow shine, be free of stuck shed or eye caps and mites, and be feeding well on Frozen/thawed mice/rats. Brazilian Rainbow Boas are ferocious eaters and should have no problem taking frozen thawed prey, if they refuse meals it can often be a sign of underlying issues, or environmental conditions that need to be changed.
Commonly known as one of the most beautiful reptiles in the world.
They range from bright red to dark brown, with multiple pattern and color variations and morphs. They get about 6-7 feet long but are fairly slender snakes, being semi-arboreal. They have an extremely strong feeding response but are known for being fairly calm snakes if handled regularly. They are constrictors and are extremely powerful snakes for their size and can have a very tight grip when being handled.
In Captivity:
As adults these snakes require a minimum of 4ft x 2ft of space, with a wet hide and a temperature gradient to help digest meals. I recommend using an appropriate sized hook when removing the snake from it's enclosure, and avoid handling around feeding times.
Temperature :
These snakes need an ambient temperature of 80-82 degrees with a warm spot of 82-84. Generally this is achieved with a heat pad or heating cable under the cage or vivarium, or with a radiant heat panel. Due to their unusually high humidity requirements a heating lamp is not an ideal source and will dry out the air in the cage.
Humidity/Hydration:
Babies and neonates require 90-100% humidity, lower humidity will cause dehydration, stuck or broken sheds and respiratory issues. Adults typically can handle 70-85%. This humidity is easy to achieve with a large water bowl for soaking , limited ventilation (no screen tank lids) and appropriate substrate should used (cypress mulch or coconut fiber are great options that hold humidity and avoiding mold). These snakes are not prone to scale rot, but it is always a possibility if kept in a dirty or overly wet environment, because of this it's important to remove feces as soon as noticed to avoid bacteria development.
Lighting:
They do not require any specific lighting or UVB, but some keepers find that light cycles are helpful when breeding or when going into brumation.
Availability:
There are several breeders of Brazilian Rainbow Boas in the United States that provide gorgeous healthy snakes. Although sometimes large chain stores will carry these snakes, they should usually be avoided, due to their specific requirements they are often not cared for properly. Respiratory infections, dehydration, and shuck shed are the most common problems with these snakes, and unfortunately these are very common with breeders or keepers who do not specialize in these snakes.
Choosing a Snake:
Any snake you choose should be alert, have a bright rainbow shine, be free of stuck shed or eye caps and mites, and be feeding well on Frozen/thawed mice/rats. Brazilian Rainbow Boas are ferocious eaters and should have no problem taking frozen thawed prey, if they refuse meals it can often be a sign of underlying issues, or environmental conditions that need to be changed.
Satanic Leaf Tailed Gecko (Uroplatus Phantasticus)
Male Uroplatus Phantasticus
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Female Uroplatus Phantasticus
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Description:
The Satanic Leaf-Tailed gecko is one of the most desirable and fantastic geckos in captivity today. They are about 3-4 inches long with large wide tails that resemble a dried dying leaf, with thin legs and arms, scales that form a horned look above their eyes, and males have abstract patterns across their body that mimic the texture of a leaf as well. Females tend to be more smooth tones and even colored usually with a full tail (no notches) and no tail base spurs, they also lack the male's signature tear droplet.
In Captivity:
There is a common misconception that all geckos make good & easy pets, when in fact these are a hard exception to that rule. These geckos do not tolerate handling well and are often stressed out by near by activity. When deciding if a Satanic Leaf Tailed gecko is right for you, first consider your surroundings and year-round environment and experience. Not only are they prone to overheating, but dehydration can also cause severe issues extremely quickly.
Due to their size, delicate nature, and lack of heat tolerance, they are recommended for experienced gecko keepers, with a temperature controlled cold room with an educated caretaker be available at all times. Many Satanic keepers would not dare go on vacation for fear of their geckos perishing from someone's mistake.
Temperature :
Unlike most geckos, Satanics leaf Tailed Geckos do best at colder temperatures, usually ranging from 65-72 degrees, with breeding activity recorded as low as mid 40s. These geckos are EXTREMELY sensitive to heat, and they will overheat or die if left about about 80-85 degrees for more than a few hours. Because many reptiles keepers do not have a suitably cold environment, this species has had a difficult time thriving in captivity.
In the Wild:
In the wild geckos live in Madagascar within about 2-3 meters of the ground in low shrubs and bushes in temperatures ranging from 45-75 degrees .
Humidity/Hydration:
Humidity should range daily from 50-90 percent but geckos should not get directly misted or sprayed. These geckos need water droplets to drink but also a cage with circulation and the ability to dry out.
We keep ours on a combination diet of crickets and dubia roaches fed daily on Ecoearth with white dwarf isopds and spring tails as cage cleaners with live plants.. Having bioactive substrate means we don't have to disturb them with cage cleaning as often and they have a constant source of different foods
Supplements:
These geckos require a delicate balance of Calcium, D3 and multi-vitamin. Females laying eggs should have some kind of calcium available at all times, have daily calcium dusted insects as well as D3 dusted insects twice weekly. Males should also be provided calcium, but generally do not need as much. Multi vitamin (we use Herptivite) should be used less often, but still regularly (generally about once a week or once every two weeks), based on your insect gut load regiment. Less gut loading means more multivitamins needed, but these geckos are sensitive to over-supplementation as well as vitamin deficiencies, so it;s important not to overdo it. Because Phantasticus prefer colder temperatures than most of the other Uroplatus their metabolism is thought to be much slower than most geckos, and thus giving them an increased susceptibility to edema from an excess of nutrients. Careful monitoring of chalk sacs is essential for this species to thrive in captivity.
Lighting:
Heat lamps are not needed or recommended for this species. Some keepers have used a low wattage puck light to give the geckos a small basking spot IF their temp range is on the low side (less than 65 degrees). If possible UVB 2.0-5.0 should be provided in sun rise and set cycles, though it is not something that every keeper uses nor has been proven necessary for their survival.
Availability:
Captive bred Phantasticus are fairly hard to come by, but not impossible to find, while wild caught specimens are still imported in fairly large numbers at this point. Market price in the United States ranges from $500-900 each for captive bred geckos, with wild caught being slightly less expensive.
Due to their low numbers in the wild, and sensitivities in captivity many Phantasticus breeders will not sell a gecko to someone would has not had experience with other Leaf Tailed Geckos. The Uroplatus sikorae is known as one of the best starting Leaf Tailed gecko to work with due to being much more forgiving of mistakes and changes as well as a much larger temperature gradient.
Choosing a Gecko:
When choosing a specific gecko to acquire there are several things to consider and look at first. Captive Bred versus Wild Caught is the biggest choice to start with. Captive bred animals obviously have far less health issues from the beginning and are better acclimated than fresh imports. Many Phantasticus do not survive the trip from Madagascar or arrive in very poor shape, severely dehydrated and infested with parasites and mites. Not only can they experience many health issues before becoming stable, but I personally believe the extra strain on their liver and kidneys ends up shortening their lifespan. Not only that, but wild numbers are rapidly decreasing due to deforestation in their native habitat. Because of these speculations and observations I do not recommend purchasing a wild caught animal as your first of this specie, unless you have no other options I don't recommend purchasing wild caught Phantasticus at all (unless for the purpose of expanding available bloodlines). I always recommend checking the physical condition ( at least get photos) of the gecko before purchasing. Many health issues can be easily spotted if you know what to look for or be careful of. First, observe the gecko and it's movement, make sure there is no stuck shed constricting any limbs or toes. Next check the tail, it should be full and flat, with no curling around the edges as that is clear sign of dehydration. Then check the eyes, are the wide open and bright, sunken eyes are sign of dehydration. Lastly, if you're getting an adult check the chalk sacs around their neck, if they look very large or hard that can be a sign of edema or infection, too deflated and the gecko could be on the way to a calcium crash. A healthy gecko should have noticeable bulges around their neck but they should not be hard. They should be alert but generally don't be surprised by a low level of activity.
The Satanic Leaf-Tailed gecko is one of the most desirable and fantastic geckos in captivity today. They are about 3-4 inches long with large wide tails that resemble a dried dying leaf, with thin legs and arms, scales that form a horned look above their eyes, and males have abstract patterns across their body that mimic the texture of a leaf as well. Females tend to be more smooth tones and even colored usually with a full tail (no notches) and no tail base spurs, they also lack the male's signature tear droplet.
In Captivity:
There is a common misconception that all geckos make good & easy pets, when in fact these are a hard exception to that rule. These geckos do not tolerate handling well and are often stressed out by near by activity. When deciding if a Satanic Leaf Tailed gecko is right for you, first consider your surroundings and year-round environment and experience. Not only are they prone to overheating, but dehydration can also cause severe issues extremely quickly.
Due to their size, delicate nature, and lack of heat tolerance, they are recommended for experienced gecko keepers, with a temperature controlled cold room with an educated caretaker be available at all times. Many Satanic keepers would not dare go on vacation for fear of their geckos perishing from someone's mistake.
Temperature :
Unlike most geckos, Satanics leaf Tailed Geckos do best at colder temperatures, usually ranging from 65-72 degrees, with breeding activity recorded as low as mid 40s. These geckos are EXTREMELY sensitive to heat, and they will overheat or die if left about about 80-85 degrees for more than a few hours. Because many reptiles keepers do not have a suitably cold environment, this species has had a difficult time thriving in captivity.
In the Wild:
In the wild geckos live in Madagascar within about 2-3 meters of the ground in low shrubs and bushes in temperatures ranging from 45-75 degrees .
Humidity/Hydration:
Humidity should range daily from 50-90 percent but geckos should not get directly misted or sprayed. These geckos need water droplets to drink but also a cage with circulation and the ability to dry out.
We keep ours on a combination diet of crickets and dubia roaches fed daily on Ecoearth with white dwarf isopds and spring tails as cage cleaners with live plants.. Having bioactive substrate means we don't have to disturb them with cage cleaning as often and they have a constant source of different foods
Supplements:
These geckos require a delicate balance of Calcium, D3 and multi-vitamin. Females laying eggs should have some kind of calcium available at all times, have daily calcium dusted insects as well as D3 dusted insects twice weekly. Males should also be provided calcium, but generally do not need as much. Multi vitamin (we use Herptivite) should be used less often, but still regularly (generally about once a week or once every two weeks), based on your insect gut load regiment. Less gut loading means more multivitamins needed, but these geckos are sensitive to over-supplementation as well as vitamin deficiencies, so it;s important not to overdo it. Because Phantasticus prefer colder temperatures than most of the other Uroplatus their metabolism is thought to be much slower than most geckos, and thus giving them an increased susceptibility to edema from an excess of nutrients. Careful monitoring of chalk sacs is essential for this species to thrive in captivity.
Lighting:
Heat lamps are not needed or recommended for this species. Some keepers have used a low wattage puck light to give the geckos a small basking spot IF their temp range is on the low side (less than 65 degrees). If possible UVB 2.0-5.0 should be provided in sun rise and set cycles, though it is not something that every keeper uses nor has been proven necessary for their survival.
Availability:
Captive bred Phantasticus are fairly hard to come by, but not impossible to find, while wild caught specimens are still imported in fairly large numbers at this point. Market price in the United States ranges from $500-900 each for captive bred geckos, with wild caught being slightly less expensive.
Due to their low numbers in the wild, and sensitivities in captivity many Phantasticus breeders will not sell a gecko to someone would has not had experience with other Leaf Tailed Geckos. The Uroplatus sikorae is known as one of the best starting Leaf Tailed gecko to work with due to being much more forgiving of mistakes and changes as well as a much larger temperature gradient.
Choosing a Gecko:
When choosing a specific gecko to acquire there are several things to consider and look at first. Captive Bred versus Wild Caught is the biggest choice to start with. Captive bred animals obviously have far less health issues from the beginning and are better acclimated than fresh imports. Many Phantasticus do not survive the trip from Madagascar or arrive in very poor shape, severely dehydrated and infested with parasites and mites. Not only can they experience many health issues before becoming stable, but I personally believe the extra strain on their liver and kidneys ends up shortening their lifespan. Not only that, but wild numbers are rapidly decreasing due to deforestation in their native habitat. Because of these speculations and observations I do not recommend purchasing a wild caught animal as your first of this specie, unless you have no other options I don't recommend purchasing wild caught Phantasticus at all (unless for the purpose of expanding available bloodlines). I always recommend checking the physical condition ( at least get photos) of the gecko before purchasing. Many health issues can be easily spotted if you know what to look for or be careful of. First, observe the gecko and it's movement, make sure there is no stuck shed constricting any limbs or toes. Next check the tail, it should be full and flat, with no curling around the edges as that is clear sign of dehydration. Then check the eyes, are the wide open and bright, sunken eyes are sign of dehydration. Lastly, if you're getting an adult check the chalk sacs around their neck, if they look very large or hard that can be a sign of edema or infection, too deflated and the gecko could be on the way to a calcium crash. A healthy gecko should have noticeable bulges around their neck but they should not be hard. They should be alert but generally don't be surprised by a low level of activity.
